Koshari

While I was reading about kedgeree, I started thinking about other rice based dishes that were on my to-try list and Egyptian dish called koshari first came to mind. I thought that being Egypts national dish it would be safe to assume that it has interesting story behind it and I wasn’t disappointed. One theory suggests that it originated in 19th century when the British were in Egypt. It is possible that some of the soldiers, who had been stationed in India, came there and brought with them the recipes from different cultures. What I found most surprising is that koshari, just like kedgeree, might come from kichdi as well. They both have rice, lentils and spices in its core however koshari is more of a multicultural affair. Tomatoes came from America, rice from the east, pasta from Italy (or Middle East, depending how far you are looking into the past), onions and lentils, well they are local. When koshari became the nations dish, I don’t know. Claudia Rohen, an acclaimed cookbook author, says that in 1950’s it was hardly eaten. However by 2011 it had become so popular that when the protesters gathered in Tahrir Square and restaurant and shops were closed down in the area, some cunning entrepreneurs set up koshari stalls there and fed the nation. If you ask me that is how meals of legends and myths are made. Even if koshari has blurry past, it certainly has gained a story that will endure.

I wonder, maybe there are other recipes, like koshari and kedgeree, whose origins might come from the Indian dish kichdi. It would be fun to learn about them as well, but for now there is my variation of the koshari.

Koshari

Serves 4 portions

For the carbs
120 grams basmati rice (soaked for at least 30 minutes)
120 grams green lentils
1 bay leaf
pinch of cumin seeds
120 grams risoni pasta, or other small pasta type
salt

For the spice mix
1 tbsp cumin seeds
2 tbsp coriander seeds
1 tbsp black pepper
1 tsp cloves
1/2 tsp cardamom pods, seeds removed
1 tsp cinnamon powder
1 tsp chilli powder
1/4 tsp grated nutmeg

For the tomato sauce
1 small red onion, finely chopped
3 garlic cloves, finely minced
3 tbsp olive oil
salt & pepper
400 ml canned tomatoes, pureed (if you like)

For the add-ons
2 small onions, thinly sliced
100 grams chickpeas (soaked overnight)
olive oil
pinch of smoked paprika
salt

Boil and drain the chickpeas, tip them on a clean towel and rub them so dry them out. Heat the oven to 160°C (fan). When the chickpeas have dried a little rub them with little oil and bake for 30 minutes, then sprinkle some salt and paprika powder and mix in. Set aside.

Heat a pan on medium heat, add oil, the onions and salt and cook stirring often for around 45 minutes or until they have become dark brown. If you think they might start burning add a splash of water. When ready set aside.

Wash the lentils, put them in a pot along with bay leaf and enough water to cover them twice over. Bring the water to a boil and cook the lentils for 20 minutes or until done. Drain and set aside in a large bowl. Meanwhile in another pot bring water to a boil, add salt and rice and boil for 3 - 4 minutes or until done. Drain, saving the water, and add the rice to the lentils. Bring the rice water to a boil again and add the pasta. Cook until it’s done, then drain and add to the lentils and rice. Mix everything together.

While the lentils are cooking, toast cumin, coriander, black pepper and cloves in a pan until aromatic, then in mortal and pestle grind them into a powder together with the rest of the spices. Set aside.

In the same pan, heat oil on medium heat. Cook onion and garlic until soft, about 5 minutes, then add 3 teaspoons of the spice mix and salt and pepper and cook for a minute. Lastly add tomatoes and cook until thickened - about 10 - 15 minutes.

Divide the rise mixture into 4 portions, spoon over some of the sauce and garnish with caramelised onions and chickpeas.

Bon Appétit,
Liga